How do you choose a vanity unit that suits your bathroom?

1. Countertop, built-in or under-mounted washbasins: three types, three approaches

The first decision you need to make isn’t about style or colour: it’s about the type of washbasin. This decision determines the actual size of the unit, the amount of worktop space available, and how easy it is to keep clean on a day-to-day basis.

The countertop washbasin

It rests on the worktop, visible in its full height. This is the most common style in contemporary and Nordic interiors. It creates a real sense of texture (ceramic, stone, composite) and positions the unit as a decorative feature in its own right.

Good to know

A countertop washbasin increases the overall height of the unit by 10 to 15 cm compared to the standard height of the cabinet. Check that this height is suitable for all users before making your choice.

The downside is that the countertop surface is reduced or eliminated on either side of the basin, and the perimeter seal must be regularly maintained to prevent mould. 

The built-in washbasin (or one-piece washbasin)

The worktop and basin form a single piece: no joints, a seamless surface, and easy to clean. It is the most practical solution for everyday use, particularly in households with children or in areas prone to high humidity.

The vanity top can be made of ceramic, solid surface (synthetic resin) or tempered glass. Solid surface is now the premium standard: it absorbs very little moisture, is easy to repair in the event of minor scratches, and can be made to measure.

The under-mounted washbasin

The basin is mounted beneath the worktop, which has been cut to accommodate it. The edge of the worktop covers the rim of the basin, creating a perfectly smooth, easy-to-clean surface. This is the most visually discreet and functional solution for high-traffic living spaces.

Requirement: the worktop must be specially adapted (with precise drilling and reinforced waterproofing), and not all materials are suitable: natural stone and solid surface work well, whereas standard laminate is much less so.

3. Materials and finishes: natural oak, white lacquer, concrete: a guide to sustainable choices

The material of the vanity unit is the choice that divides buyers the most. And with good reason: it’s a long-term commitment in an environment that’s particularly harsh on materials, with constant humidity, temperature fluctuations and cleaning products. Here’s what you need to know about the three main types. 

Real wood and natural oak

Oak is the most commonly used wood in bathrooms, and for good reason: its natural tannins make it more resistant to moisture than most other types of wood. A piece of furniture made from solid oak or high-quality oak veneer, provided it is properly treated and well ventilated, can last 20 to 30 years without any significant warping.

What to look for: a factory-applied water-repellent finish (hard oil, polyurethane varnish or satin lacquer), expansion joints if the furniture is located near a walk-in shower, and adequate mechanical ventilation in the room (mechanical ventilation is mandatory in Belgium for new builds and major renovations).

Good to know

Natural oak changes slightly over time: it develops a patina and gains depth. Many people see this as a quality — a living characteristic of the material. Some Facq ranges are available in a ‘raw oak’ or ‘grey oak’ finish to emphasise this authentic look.

White lacquer and matt finishes

White lacquer remains the best-selling finish in Europe, and for good reason. It reflects light, makes the space appear larger, is easy to clean with a damp cloth, and goes well with all types of taps. In a matt finish, it creates a very contemporary look, reminiscent of high-end kitchens.

Pay close attention to the quality of the lacquer finish: a cheap lacquer scratches easily and will yellow within a few years due to UV exposure (particularly if the bathroom has a window). Premium brands use a multi-layer polyurethane lacquer that is impact- and UV-resistant, with a finish applied in a pressure-controlled booth.

In a very damp or poorly ventilated bathroom, low-cost white lacquer can swell and delaminate within 3 to 5 years. Always insist on a manufacturer’s warranty for the surface finish and check that the core board is made of water-resistant MDF or HDF (not standard chipboard).

Concrete-effect finishes and mineral materials

The trend for polished concrete and mineral finishes (stone-effect, slate-effect) has become a prominent feature in contemporary bathrooms. These finishes are now reproduced using high-definition digital printing on HDF panels or as thick vinyl cladding, offering a visually striking result at a fraction of the cost of genuine polished concrete.

The advantage: high resistance to scratches and moisture in industrial versions. The disadvantage: some cheap imitations show a plastic sheen when viewed in low light. To tell the difference between good and poor finishes, run your hand over the surface: the best ones have a raised micro-texture.

4. Existing plumbing: the blind spot in too many projects

People often choose their vanity unit in a showroom without first checking the position of the existing plumbing. Yet this is one of the most crucial factors — and the most costly to overlook.

Wall-mounted power supply or floor-mounted power supply?

In Belgium, the vast majority of existing bathrooms have wall-mounted taps (with hot and cold water coming out of the wall) and a floor or wall-mounted drain. The position of these taps directly determines the type of unit that is compatible:

• Wall-mounted water supply and trap: compatible with almost all vanity units. This is the ideal setup.
• Wall-mounted supply, floor drain: compatible with freestanding units and certain base units; wall-mounted units may require the drain to be repositioned.
• Underfloor supply: less common, often found in older buildings in Brussels or houses built before 1970. Almost always requires a technical enclosure or plumbing modifications.

Wall-mounted unit or freestanding unit?

Wall-mounted units are now the norm in contemporary bathrooms. They make it easier to clean the floor, create a sense of space and allow the height to be adjusted to suit the user. However, they require the load-bearing wall to be able to support the weight (between 30 and 80 kg depending on the size of the unit and its contents), and the plumbing to be correctly positioned.

When renovating, if the pipework is visible on the wall, you will either need to conceal the pipes (a major job) or fit a cover. Some manufacturers offer pipework cover systems that match the furniture — an elegant solution that avoids the need for building work.

The Facq opinion

At Facq, our advisors always check the technical feasibility before suggesting a solution. Make an appointment at the EXPOcenter with a floor plan of your bathroom and a photo of your existing plumbing — this helps avoid any unpleasant surprises when it comes to installation.

5. Storage: drawers, tall units and built-in solutions

A vanity unit isn’t just about its looks: it needs to accommodate everything the bathroom requires on a daily basis — toiletries, medicines, towels and electrical appliances. Storage space is often underestimated when buying, and overestimated in terms of its actual capacity.

Drawers vs doors: the everyday rule

Drawers are almost always preferable to doors in a vanity unit. They allow you to see and access the entire contents at a glance, store items deep inside without stacking them, and keep the interior organised using dividers. Doors, on the other hand, create blind spots at the back of the unit and mean you have to bend down to reach items at the back.

The only situation where a door is still useful is when plumbing pipes run through the unit and need to be accessed for maintenance. In this case, a door is more practical than a drawer, which would need to be dismantled.

The integrated or adjacent column

A tall unit is the natural complement to a vanity unit in medium-sized bathrooms. It can be integrated into the layout (attached to the vanity unit, in the same style) or freestanding. It offers between 80 and 150 litres of additional storage space depending on its height, often featuring a mirror or built-in lighting at the top. → See our dedicated article: Bathroom units with built-in tall storage units: what are the benefits?

In a bathroom measuring 6 to 8 m² with a single 80 cm-wide unit, a 30 cm-wide tall unit is often enough to provide additional storage without cluttering the space.

Handle-free furniture

The push-to-open system has become very popular in contemporary bathrooms. It gives the cabinet a particularly sleek look, with no protruding parts to disrupt the lines. But is it really practical? → This topic is discussed in: Handle-free bathroom cabinets: sleek aesthetics, but are they practical?

The short answer: yes, provided the mechanism is of high quality. Cheap systems lose their springiness after a few years of heavy use. Premium brands (Duravit, Sanijura, Villeroy & Boch) use anti-rebound mechanisms with adjustable tension that last 10 years or more.

6. The mirror: the element that completes the composition

A vanity unit without a matching mirror is like a kitchen without a splashback. The mirror acts as a link between the unit and the wall, and between the lower and upper parts of the room. It often occupies more visual space than the unit itself. 

A single mirror or a bathroom cabinet?

This distinction is important. A standard mirror maximises the light and visual impact, but offers no storage space. A mirrored bathroom cabinet conceals storage behind the glass — the ideal solution in small bathrooms where every centimetre counts. Some models combine the two: a central mirror surrounded by open shelves or side cabinets.

Built-in lighting

A backlit mirror (with perimeter LEDs or back-diffusion) is not just a gimmick: it is the most effective lighting solution for the bathroom. The front lighting around the face eliminates the shadows cast by ceiling spotlights, and the colour temperature (between 2700 K and 4000 K) can be adjusted according to the time of day on premium models. IP44 is the minimum rating required for a lighted mirror in Zone 2 (more than 60 cm from the edge of the shower).

Key points

The two-thirds rule: for an 80 cm vanity unit, choose a mirror that is at least 70 to 80 cm wide — it should cover at least the width of the basin. A mirror that is too narrow looks unbalanced and is impractical.
In large bathrooms, a full-length mirror (from the worktop to the ceiling) is often more stylish than a standard mirror set against a tiled backdrop.

7. Washbasin units for toilets and small spaces: compact solutions

Not all spaces can accommodate a standard vanity unit. Separate toilets, adjoining walk-in wardrobes or utility rooms often require a basic washbasin, but with a compact footprint.

The 30–45 cm washbasin

A washbasin measuring 30 cm wide and 25 cm deep allows you to install a functional washbasin in a 80 x 120 cm toilet cubicle. These sizes are available as wall-mounted units (without a vanity unit, just the basin and taps) or as compact vanity units with one or two small drawers. Some models incorporate a cistern within the cabinet beneath the basin — a very clever solution for small-sized toilets.

The bathroom area in a walk-in wardrobe

Fitting out a dressing room adjoining the bathroom is a major trend in the renovation of Belgian detached houses. A compact washbasin area, a small mirrored cabinet and good ventilation are all it takes to create a comfortable dressing area, separate from the rest of the bathroom. 

8. Which brand of vanity unit should you choose? Sanijura, Duravit, Villeroy & Boch

The market for vanity units is dominated by brands that vary greatly in terms of positioning, quality and price range. Here’s how to make the right choice. 

* € = entry-level, €€ = mid-range, €€€ = premium, €€€€ = top-of-the-range

The Facq opinion

Facq stocks all these brands in its EXPOcenters across Belgium. Our advisors can show you the collections side by side, along with the matching basins and taps, to help you visualise the complete setup before you buy.

9. Budget and VAT: how much should you budget for a vanity unit in Belgium?

The cost of a complete vanity unit (unit + basin + taps + mirror) varies considerably depending on the brand, width and finish. Here are the realistic price ranges for 2026, excluding installation.

Key points

6% VAT: in Belgium, the installation of a vanity unit in a property over 10 years old qualifies for the reduced VAT rate of 6% on labour (compared to the standard rate of 21%). This can represent a saving of €200 to €600 on a complete project. This rate applies to conversion, renovation and refurbishment work — not to the purchase of products alone.

Installation: expect to pay between €150 and €400 for the installation of a vanity unit, depending on the complexity of the job (wall-mounted unit requiring plumbing alterations = higher end of the scale; freestanding unit with standard connections = lower end of the scale).

10. The 7 mistakes you must avoid at all costs

These mistakes crop up time and time again during showroom visits. Avoiding them will spare you disappointment — or extra costs.

1. Choosing the width without measuring the existing plumbing. The position of the water supply pipes and the trap may limit or dictate certain cabinet widths. Measure before you choose, not after.
2. Choosing a wall-mounted unit without checking the wall. A plasterboard wall (Placostil) cannot support the weight of a fully loaded wall-mounted unit. A brick or concrete wall is required, or the wall must be reinforced beforehand.
3. Underestimating the overall height with a countertop basin. A 15 cm high basin on a unit 85 cm above the floor results in a worktop height of 100 cm — which is uncomfortable for children and shorter people.
4. Don’t skimp on the quality of the fittings. Drawer runners and hinges are the parts that wear out the quickest. Insist on branded fittings (Blum, Grass, Häfele) with soft-close mechanisms — the difference in durability is significant.
5. Choose a high-gloss finish in a room exposed to direct light. Fingerprints and water droplets are immediately visible. In well-lit bathrooms, a matt or satin finish is much more practical.
6. Ignore the depth of the unit. The standard depth is 45 to 50 cm. A 35 cm (compact) unit may be necessary in a small bathroom, but this will reduce the available storage space and worktop area.

Buying the mirror separately without ensuring it matches the cabinet. Even if the mirror isn’t necessarily the same brand, it must match the cabinet in terms of width, style and finish. A round mirror with a very linear cabinet: it can work — but it’s a deliberate stylistic choice, not an oversight.

Further reading: creating a cohesive bathroom

Choosing a vanity unit is never a standalone decision. It forms part of a wider design scheme that includes the taps, mirror, tiling and lighting — all these elements work together, and the overall harmony is what makes the difference between a functional bathroom and one that truly reflects your personality.

The articles in this semantic hub guide you step by step through this process:

• Countertop basin vs built-in basin: how does this affect the vanity unit?
• Bathroom furniture: natural oak, white lacquer or concrete — a guide to materials
• How do you choose the right vanity unit to suit your existing plumbing?
• 60cm or 80cm bathroom cabinet: which is best for a single person versus a couple?
• Large bathroom: 140 cm or 160 cm vanity unit — how can you avoid it looking like a warehouse?
• Bathroom cabinet with built-in tall unit: what are the benefits?
• Washbasin units for toilets: the best compact solutions
• Sanijura, Duravit, Villeroy & Boch: how do you choose a bathroom furniture brand?
• Handle-free bathroom furniture: sleek design – but is it practical?
• Bathroom mirrors: round, rectangular, backlit — which one should you choose?
• How do you design a walk-in wardrobe adjoining the bathroom?